Tabasco & Chiapas
Two-month stay in Merida minus our working hours minus the time we spent exploring the city equals two longer trips and two one-day trips. Today I will tell you about our road trip (which was the first one, some two weeks after arriving in Merida).
The itinerary was clear: Merida => Campeche => Villahermosa => Palenque => Agua Azul Waterfalls => Campeche => Merida. The car rental was confirmed. The last thing on the list was finishing work that day. And after we did we could happily set off.
It's slightly more than two hours from Merida to Campeche, more precisely, to Uayamon where we were staying. Telchac found this beautiful Hacienda where we had our small villa for the night. Only one night there and checking in at 5pm, one could have thought nothing worth mentioning could have happened - but the opposite is true.
After arriving at the villa and after a little walk around the hacienda we wanted to freshen up before the dinner. That was how we found out that we were not the only occupants of the villa. The third guest was no-one else but a nice little Mexican murcielago. No, not the car, the actual bat. Somehow he found a way in and decided to chill on the bathroom shutters. We are quite animal-friendly but despite that, we preferred to let the hotel staff deal with it. Surprisingly, the guy that arrived did not seem particularly excited that he had to do this. Anyway after maybe 10 minutes of various not really pro-techniques they (Telchac helped ;)) made him fly out and finally our bathroom was bat-free and much more welcoming. The rest of our stay here was nice, we had some dinner, breakfast & went for another little walk and suddenly it was time to check-out.
Our next destination was Villahermosa - mere 5 and a half hours from Uayamon. The journey was long but at least we could enjoy the views because the road took us along the coast (and we also enjoyed a little quick dip at this amazing beach). We also got to see the offshore platforms (reminded me of aliens from the War of the Wolds) and the little Venetian-like town of Champoton (I don't know why but it just reminded me of it even though it's worlds away). Btw if you're in search of the freshest seafood, Champoton (among other places, of course) is the place to be, as they were selling everything you can possibly find in the sea right next to the road.
On and on, still closer to our destination. Snacks and water were absolutely essential but despite that, the ride got the better of us and we arrived in Villahermosa a bit tired. We somehow expected this (not necessary to be a genius to expect this) so we just ate something and relaxed. The next day our plan was to walk to the Parque Tomás Garrido Canabal and Parque Museo La Venta. There were supposed to be lots of animals in the first one and lots of Olmec artefacts (what a great idea to create an outdoor museum!) in the second one - it turned out to be true and true, respectively ;). Anyway, if you're afraid of animals, think twice, there are really plenty of coaties running free - but we enjoyed it a lot. However, it was quite far and considering it was hotter than hot that day, it required several bottles of water to get there in good health. Either way, it was absolutely worth it - both the animals and the museum!
Useful tip: There was a man, in front of the museum, selling cocoa beans. If you are thinking about getting some for you or as a present, go ahead, it does not get any cheaper (especially not at the airport). And it lasts ages, we are still munching on them now, 7 months later. And from what I've heard, they are also healthy!
It takes two hours to get from Villahermosa to Palenque. We chose a more simple hotel so we needed to stop at Palenque (the village) and do some shopping (tequila, cookies and water :D). The hotel was overlooking a gorgeous jungle valley and we didn't need much more than that. Rows after rows of trees, jungle sounds from all over - incredible. We were very happy we had chosen this hotel and we were even happier in the morning as we were the first (literally) ones in Palenque (the archaeological site).
If there is only one thing you can do right in Mexico, it's to make sure you are at any Mayan site as early as possible. After going in, we got lost in the maze of the buildings and pyramids and only emerged after two hours - and it felt like there were ten times as many people as before. No people means more beautiful photos, it means nobody is laughing or screaming or gets in your way. Also, it tends to get very hot there and you might not be comfortable to walk around at noon. The third reason is the light. It's much softer in the morning than at noon, so you don't end up with super-overexposed photos.
Useful tip: The site is pretty large, it may take a couple of hours to walk around. Getting in early means fewer people and colder weather. Also, if you want to visit the museum, there will still be fewer people there and there's AC which makes it more bearable when the temperature outside hits its max. Also if the parking's full they might close the road up and you might end up walking at least 20 mins uphill. So go in early, there's no reason not to!
On the other hand, if you don't mind walking, then I suggest going to the main entrance and then going down the path and getting out almost at the museum. That way you get to see the waterfalls and more ruins which are farther below.
Btw even if you saw the ruins elsewhere in Mexico (we already did see some, here's more on that), Palenque really does feel special. First of all, it's basically in the jungle. Even in February, it did not feel dry or yellowish as it did in Coba. You can climb anywhere (except for the main pyramid) and the big difference (when comparing it to Coba) is that because of its size you do not have that crowded feeling. There are also some shaded parts so you are not left on your own under the scorching sun.
The itinerary was clear: Merida => Campeche => Villahermosa => Palenque => Agua Azul Waterfalls => Campeche => Merida. The car rental was confirmed. The last thing on the list was finishing work that day. And after we did we could happily set off.
It's slightly more than two hours from Merida to Campeche, more precisely, to Uayamon where we were staying. Telchac found this beautiful Hacienda where we had our small villa for the night. Only one night there and checking in at 5pm, one could have thought nothing worth mentioning could have happened - but the opposite is true.
After arriving at the villa and after a little walk around the hacienda we wanted to freshen up before the dinner. That was how we found out that we were not the only occupants of the villa. The third guest was no-one else but a nice little Mexican murcielago. No, not the car, the actual bat. Somehow he found a way in and decided to chill on the bathroom shutters. We are quite animal-friendly but despite that, we preferred to let the hotel staff deal with it. Surprisingly, the guy that arrived did not seem particularly excited that he had to do this. Anyway after maybe 10 minutes of various not really pro-techniques they (Telchac helped ;)) made him fly out and finally our bathroom was bat-free and much more welcoming. The rest of our stay here was nice, we had some dinner, breakfast & went for another little walk and suddenly it was time to check-out.
Our next destination was Villahermosa - mere 5 and a half hours from Uayamon. The journey was long but at least we could enjoy the views because the road took us along the coast (and we also enjoyed a little quick dip at this amazing beach). We also got to see the offshore platforms (reminded me of aliens from the War of the Wolds) and the little Venetian-like town of Champoton (I don't know why but it just reminded me of it even though it's worlds away). Btw if you're in search of the freshest seafood, Champoton (among other places, of course) is the place to be, as they were selling everything you can possibly find in the sea right next to the road.
On and on, still closer to our destination. Snacks and water were absolutely essential but despite that, the ride got the better of us and we arrived in Villahermosa a bit tired. We somehow expected this (not necessary to be a genius to expect this) so we just ate something and relaxed. The next day our plan was to walk to the Parque Tomás Garrido Canabal and Parque Museo La Venta. There were supposed to be lots of animals in the first one and lots of Olmec artefacts (what a great idea to create an outdoor museum!) in the second one - it turned out to be true and true, respectively ;). Anyway, if you're afraid of animals, think twice, there are really plenty of coaties running free - but we enjoyed it a lot. However, it was quite far and considering it was hotter than hot that day, it required several bottles of water to get there in good health. Either way, it was absolutely worth it - both the animals and the museum!
Useful tip: There was a man, in front of the museum, selling cocoa beans. If you are thinking about getting some for you or as a present, go ahead, it does not get any cheaper (especially not at the airport). And it lasts ages, we are still munching on them now, 7 months later. And from what I've heard, they are also healthy!
It takes two hours to get from Villahermosa to Palenque. We chose a more simple hotel so we needed to stop at Palenque (the village) and do some shopping (tequila, cookies and water :D). The hotel was overlooking a gorgeous jungle valley and we didn't need much more than that. Rows after rows of trees, jungle sounds from all over - incredible. We were very happy we had chosen this hotel and we were even happier in the morning as we were the first (literally) ones in Palenque (the archaeological site).
If there is only one thing you can do right in Mexico, it's to make sure you are at any Mayan site as early as possible. After going in, we got lost in the maze of the buildings and pyramids and only emerged after two hours - and it felt like there were ten times as many people as before. No people means more beautiful photos, it means nobody is laughing or screaming or gets in your way. Also, it tends to get very hot there and you might not be comfortable to walk around at noon. The third reason is the light. It's much softer in the morning than at noon, so you don't end up with super-overexposed photos.
Useful tip: The site is pretty large, it may take a couple of hours to walk around. Getting in early means fewer people and colder weather. Also, if you want to visit the museum, there will still be fewer people there and there's AC which makes it more bearable when the temperature outside hits its max. Also if the parking's full they might close the road up and you might end up walking at least 20 mins uphill. So go in early, there's no reason not to!
On the other hand, if you don't mind walking, then I suggest going to the main entrance and then going down the path and getting out almost at the museum. That way you get to see the waterfalls and more ruins which are farther below.
Btw even if you saw the ruins elsewhere in Mexico (we already did see some, here's more on that), Palenque really does feel special. First of all, it's basically in the jungle. Even in February, it did not feel dry or yellowish as it did in Coba. You can climb anywhere (except for the main pyramid) and the big difference (when comparing it to Coba) is that because of its size you do not have that crowded feeling. There are also some shaded parts so you are not left on your own under the scorching sun.
One thing that's a bit sad is that they let the sellers sell inside the site. Therefore after they take out all their stuff (which takes them about an hour - another reason to come in early), you can hear all the jaguar noises and bird noises when passing them by. Anyway, don't be fooled, they're very skilled, we bought a bird and I am absolutely no good at making it sound like a bird, Telchac's better, though, while when the sellers played it, it sounded almost real.
We spent a couple of hours there which meant we scratched the waterfalls (Agua Azul, previously on our itinerary) off the list. It's a shame but it would not have done any good. We would not have had any time to enjoy it and it'd have taken us much longer to get to Campeche. As Telchac like to say in these situations - you cannot have everything in life (although he generally does :D).
Another 5-hour ride and we were in there. We did not have any must-see list there, we kept it easy, breezy, Campeche ;). Some aguas frescas, cakes, walks and that would be it.
Fun fact: we believe they have the largest Mexican flag in Campeche. It was enormous!
Useful tip: You can watch a light show at the main square at 8pm (we missed it by a couple of minutes). It's supposed to be very nice and unique and you get to see the buildings in a different light - literally.
One more night and one more ride and we were back in Merida. It had been four days full of new places, experiences and relaxing - exactly as we wanted it to be. We only smile now at the long hours spent in the car, so do not let that discourage you! There's plenty to see, even more, when you are driving. In two weeks I'll be back with our next tremendous trip tip, so come back here, we are waiting for you. C U then!