Valladolid & Progreso
Two days (aka weekend), two travel-bug-infectees and two destinations. Only one car, though :D. This was our second trip from Merida summed up. However, let me go more into details. Day one - Progreso, day two - Valladolid. And as the road from Progreso goes almost all the way back to Merida, we returned back home and did not book any hotel to sleep in. One could, therefore, say it was Merida - Progreso - Merida - Valladolid - Merida but not me, I will not say that.
Our first stop on our way to Progreso was Sisal beach near Sisal (astonishing! Is it really near Sisal?!). Merida is inland so some vitamin sea was exactly what we needed. I will skip the beach part (goes for Progreso beach as well) simply because you can read all about it here. So let's get to the Progreso (town) part. We had exactly zero expectations when it came to Progreso. Our only knowledge was that it was the closest beach town to Merida. And we left with the same feeling - no grand feelings (neither bad nor good) about Progreso. Most of the shops you pass by are tourist shops or stalls selling everything a proper tourist does (or doesn't) need. Even the restaurants came out that way. We weren't really keen on trying any or buying anything.
Anyway, we parked the car near a little square where the townhouse was located and this was a really good choice. Going back we sat down watching boys play football and some older gentlemen having a very serious discussion. Afterwards, we got in the car - no serious discussion involved - and went back home.
Useful tip: I never say "better avoid this place" or something like that. However, if you're on a tight schedule or short road trip, there are more beautiful places (nearby!) that I'd recommend instead of Progreso.
Next morning we left for Valladolid, after some tolls (have cash ready!) and some two hours, we finally made it. Valladolid was on my bucket list since we first came to Mexico, all because of this photo (more about that later ;)). For a while it looked like we weren't going to make it this time either but when there's a will, there's a way, right? So here we were and this is what we saw:
Parque Principal Francisco Canton Rosado
A typical Mexican town park where you can find lots of stalls selling food and drinks. Lots of people sitting and gossiping. And lots of people sitting and people-watching. Also, this is the place right next to the Valladolid cathedral where you can take the best photos from various angles.
Convent de San Bernardino de Siena
A short walk away, you will find the vast Convent, where you can basically burn alive because there is no shade. Unless you go in which we could not, because I usually dress a bit too revealing for the churches (how do you dress when it's 30+ degrees? just saying...). The good thing was, there was an ice cream stand. Against Telchac's better judgement I asked him to get me an ice-cream. He came back with a medium cup filled with ice-cream/flavoured ice which turned out to be exactly what I needed and what brought me back to life. (Even in hindsight, it was a good choice, no reason not to go for it.)
Daniela Bustos Maya (Josefina Residencia & atelier)
A quick recommendation for the shopping enthusiasts: this Argentinian born Mexico-based designer making marvellous jewellery but most importantly a cleverly revealing dresses is not to be missed. I found her somewhere on IG and immediately knew I need one of her dresses. It's a pity that I pissed myself off (all women know what I mean, right?) and stubbornly ignored the place. And now, my only hope is that my finding this place will inspire someone and make them happy.
La Casona de Valladolid
Now we're getting to the photo I mentioned earlier. It was the main reason I wanted to go to Valladolid. No, not because I'd pose in front of the shrine and then change my profile pic on all social media. Just because it looks immense and it has a kind of creepy feeling about it.
Until I found out it was inside of a restaurant. The restaurant which was closed on Sundays. The restaurant which is now owned by X Caret group which makes me feel like it stripped off all its remaining authenticity.
Either way, it probably is an amazing photo but I doubt there is anything special about the moment when you take the photo (but go for a photo if you're there! Hell of a profile pic ;)).
Cenote Zaci
First of all, my kind of cenote is the one you can swim in, ideally alone or with as few people as possible, which is not in the middle of the city. This makes cenote Zaci not my kind of place. Yes, it's in the city so it's easily accessible. But there are people. Quite a lot of them. But if, for some reason, cenotes are not part of your itinerary, stop by, you won't regret it (or stop by somewhere else, here's a small inspo).
Museo de Ropa Etnica de Mexico
One of my top three things to do in Valladolid! We joined a tour in Spanish (a bit difficult but fitted right in our 'we want to learn Spanish' plan) so we may miss a detail here or there but despite that it was fascinating! There's a small fee and the museum itself is on the smaller side but it's a must-see if you find yourselves admiring Yucatecan huipils. I daresay even Telchac enjoyed it, and he's not that big of a fan when it comes to clothes.
There's a big chance that if you're in Cancun or in the area, you'll go to Chichen Itza which means you'll pass Valladolid. My advice is to not just pass it (like we did two years ago) but stop there and wander the streets and the squares. Remember (a little cliche at the end): travel is the only thing that makes you richer. I'll be back in the usual two weeks to talk about our next (capital) trip. C U there!
Our first stop on our way to Progreso was Sisal beach near Sisal (astonishing! Is it really near Sisal?!). Merida is inland so some vitamin sea was exactly what we needed. I will skip the beach part (goes for Progreso beach as well) simply because you can read all about it here. So let's get to the Progreso (town) part. We had exactly zero expectations when it came to Progreso. Our only knowledge was that it was the closest beach town to Merida. And we left with the same feeling - no grand feelings (neither bad nor good) about Progreso. Most of the shops you pass by are tourist shops or stalls selling everything a proper tourist does (or doesn't) need. Even the restaurants came out that way. We weren't really keen on trying any or buying anything.
Anyway, we parked the car near a little square where the townhouse was located and this was a really good choice. Going back we sat down watching boys play football and some older gentlemen having a very serious discussion. Afterwards, we got in the car - no serious discussion involved - and went back home.
Useful tip: I never say "better avoid this place" or something like that. However, if you're on a tight schedule or short road trip, there are more beautiful places (nearby!) that I'd recommend instead of Progreso.
Next morning we left for Valladolid, after some tolls (have cash ready!) and some two hours, we finally made it. Valladolid was on my bucket list since we first came to Mexico, all because of this photo (more about that later ;)). For a while it looked like we weren't going to make it this time either but when there's a will, there's a way, right? So here we were and this is what we saw:
Parque Principal Francisco Canton Rosado
A typical Mexican town park where you can find lots of stalls selling food and drinks. Lots of people sitting and gossiping. And lots of people sitting and people-watching. Also, this is the place right next to the Valladolid cathedral where you can take the best photos from various angles.
Convent de San Bernardino de Siena
A short walk away, you will find the vast Convent, where you can basically burn alive because there is no shade. Unless you go in which we could not, because I usually dress a bit too revealing for the churches (how do you dress when it's 30+ degrees? just saying...). The good thing was, there was an ice cream stand. Against Telchac's better judgement I asked him to get me an ice-cream. He came back with a medium cup filled with ice-cream/flavoured ice which turned out to be exactly what I needed and what brought me back to life. (Even in hindsight, it was a good choice, no reason not to go for it.)
Daniela Bustos Maya (Josefina Residencia & atelier)
A quick recommendation for the shopping enthusiasts: this Argentinian born Mexico-based designer making marvellous jewellery but most importantly a cleverly revealing dresses is not to be missed. I found her somewhere on IG and immediately knew I need one of her dresses. It's a pity that I pissed myself off (all women know what I mean, right?) and stubbornly ignored the place. And now, my only hope is that my finding this place will inspire someone and make them happy.
La Casona de Valladolid
Now we're getting to the photo I mentioned earlier. It was the main reason I wanted to go to Valladolid. No, not because I'd pose in front of the shrine and then change my profile pic on all social media. Just because it looks immense and it has a kind of creepy feeling about it.
Until I found out it was inside of a restaurant. The restaurant which was closed on Sundays. The restaurant which is now owned by X Caret group which makes me feel like it stripped off all its remaining authenticity.
Either way, it probably is an amazing photo but I doubt there is anything special about the moment when you take the photo (but go for a photo if you're there! Hell of a profile pic ;)).
Cenote Zaci
First of all, my kind of cenote is the one you can swim in, ideally alone or with as few people as possible, which is not in the middle of the city. This makes cenote Zaci not my kind of place. Yes, it's in the city so it's easily accessible. But there are people. Quite a lot of them. But if, for some reason, cenotes are not part of your itinerary, stop by, you won't regret it (or stop by somewhere else, here's a small inspo).
Museo de Ropa Etnica de Mexico
One of my top three things to do in Valladolid! We joined a tour in Spanish (a bit difficult but fitted right in our 'we want to learn Spanish' plan) so we may miss a detail here or there but despite that it was fascinating! There's a small fee and the museum itself is on the smaller side but it's a must-see if you find yourselves admiring Yucatecan huipils. I daresay even Telchac enjoyed it, and he's not that big of a fan when it comes to clothes.
There's a big chance that if you're in Cancun or in the area, you'll go to Chichen Itza which means you'll pass Valladolid. My advice is to not just pass it (like we did two years ago) but stop there and wander the streets and the squares. Remember (a little cliche at the end): travel is the only thing that makes you richer. I'll be back in the usual two weeks to talk about our next (capital) trip. C U there!